Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus)
Difficulty: Easy
Crested geckos are medium-sized 6-8” long lizards that range from cream to dark brown in color with a
variety of patterns depending on morph (a reptile that has been bred for a specific color and/or
pattern). They have wide toes that give them the ability to climb up smooth surfaces, and a fringe that
runs from above their eyes down their back.
Crested geckos are native to New Caledonia, a group of islands between Fiji and Australia. They are most
commonly found on the islands of Grande Terre and the Isle of Pines. These islands feature a tropical
rainforest habitat, where crested geckos can be found among the trees and vines.
Crested geckos have a 15-20 year lifespan when cared for properly, and may live longer in some cases.
Due to their manageable size, relatively simple care requirements, and tolerance toward humans,
crested geckos are popular first-time reptiles.
Housing
Although crested geckos are small, they still need an enclosure that is large enough to give them
adequate opportunity to explore, hunt, and generally exercise natural behaviors. They are also arboreal,
which means that they are a tree-dwelling species, and generally prefer terrariums that are taller than
they are wide. This is why the minimum recommended enclosure size for a single crested gecko is 18”L x
18”W x 24”H. If possible, larger is always better.
Particularly young crested geckos (less than 12g) benefit from being kept in a smaller, temporary “grow
out” enclosure (around 5 gallons, or roughly 12” x 12” x 12”) until they are large enough to safely
navigate a full-sized adult enclosure.
Can multiple crested geckos be housed in the same enclosure?
Although there are instances of multiple females or even one male and several females being
successfully kept together, this requires a larger enclosure and particularly careful husbandry. If the
geckos don’t get along, they can fight and severely injure one another. This is why cohabitation is not
recommended for novice keepers.
Males should never be housed together until you know their signs!
Lighting & UVB
Crested geckos are crepuscular, which means that they are active at night, but mostly around sunset.
This means that they are likely to prefer cooler temperatures, are exposed to low levels of indirect UVB
during the day, and have exceptional night vision.
UVB Lighting
Due to the nature of crested geckos’ captive diet, they can survive without UVB lighting, but they do
best when it is provided. UVB lighting can be tricky, because in order to get the right strength of UVB
(measured by UV Index, or UVI), distance must be considered.
As a rough estimate, to provide appropriate UVB to a crested gecko in an 18” x 18” x 24” enclosure that
maximizes vertical space utilization with vines and branches, you will need one 12” Arcadia T8 6% or Zoo
Med T8 ReptiSun 5.0 in a reflective T8 fixture. Place the basking area no closer than 6” below the lamp.
(These recommendations are approximations. It is strongly recommended to use a Solarmeter 6.5 to
determine the best placement to achieve a UVI of 1.0-2.0 in the basking area at the top of the enclosure.)
Heating
Humans are warm-blooded, which means that our body temperature is automatically regulated. Crested
geckos, however, are cold-blooded, which means that they have to move between areas of different
temperatures in order to regulate their body temperature. In the wild, crested geckos warm up during
the day by sleeping in a warm patch of sunlight. In captivity, sunlight can be replicated with a heat lamp.
Basking area temperature: 82-85°F (28-29°C)
Cool zone temperature: 70-75°F (21-24°C)
Nighttime temperature: 65-72°F (18-22°C)
Generally speaking, it doesn’t take much to achieve such a low basking temperature. A 40w white
incandescent bulb should be plenty. However, if you notice that the basking area is too warm, dial down
the heat down with a plug-in lamp dimmer or switch to a lower wattage bulb. If your basking area is too
cool, you will need a higher wattage bulb.
The basking area should be a vine, branch, or cluster of foliage directly under the heat lamp. Because
your crested gecko is arboreal and will be living in a tall enclosure, the warmest temperatures will be at
the top (near the heat lamp), and the coolest temperatures will be toward the bottom. You will need
vines, branches, and foliage at all levels to allow for proper thermoregulation.
To measure the general temperature of different areas of your terrarium, use an infrared thermometer
(a.k.a. temperature gun). To passively track basking temperature, use a digital probe thermometer, with
the probe placed on the basking surface under the heat source. The Etekcity 774 is a good infrared
thermometer, and most reptile-brand digital probe thermometers function well.
Humidity
Crested geckos do best in a high-humidity environment, with an average humidity of 60-80% as
measured by a digital probe hygrometer with the probe placed in the middle of the enclosure. Humidity
levels that are consistently too high or low can cause health problems for your gecko. However, it is
natural for humidity to be lower in the warm area and higher in the cool area. It is also normal and
healthy for humidity levels to rise at night and fall during the day.
To raise the humidity in your crested gecko’s enclosure (and provide an extra source of drinking water),
use a pump-style pressure sprayer to wet down the enclosure every morning and evening.
It’s best to use tap water for misting, rather than distilled or reverse-osmosis water. Tap water contains
essential minerals that are important to your gecko’s health, and distilled water may actually suck those
minerals out of your gecko.
Substrate
Because crested geckos are arboreal (tree-dwelling), they don’t spend much time on the ground.
Although it’s not necessary as a bedding for them, it’s very useful for helping to stabilize humidity. It also
acts as a cushion if they fall from their perch, which does happen occasionally.
It’s best to use a moisture-retentive substrate that is similar to the soil in a crested gecko’s natural
habitat. Here are a few options:
DIY tropical mix: 60% organic topsoil, 40% coconut fiber
Lugarti Natural Reptile Bedding
Zoo Med Reptisoil
The Bio Dude Terra Fauna
For best results, add a generous layer of leaf litter on top.
Feces and urates should be removed daily, and contaminated substrate should be scooped out and
replaced. Substrate should be completely replaced once every 1-3 months, depending on your needs. Décor
Decorations play a vital role in your crested gecko’s enclosure as environmental enrichment. Enrichment
items encourage exercise, stimulate your pet’s natural instincts, and help promote overall wellbeing.
And, of course, they make the enclosure look nicer! Without décor, your crested gecko’s terrarium is
just a glass box with dirt and a feeding ledge.
Branches, vines, and live or artificial foliage work well as décor in a crested gecko terrarium. You can also
use spanish moss, natural bamboo, and arboreal hideouts. Arrange these items in a way that
encourages your crested gecko to climb and explore, and provides a variety of options for places to
sleep during the day.
Food
Crested geckos are omnivores, which means that they need a balanced diet of both plant- and animal
based foods to get the nutrition that they need. In the wild, they eat mostly fruit and insects. As pets, it’s
best to feed them specially-formulated, high-quality crested gecko diet plus live insects. Crested gecko
diet (CGD) is a nutritionally-complete powder that becomes a meal replacement smoothie when water
is added.
How often crested geckos need to eat depends on age:
Hatchlings and Juveniles (0-12 months) — CGD daily, insects 1-2x/week
Adults (>12 months) — CGD every 2-3 days, insects 1x/week
Best crested gecko diet powders: Pangea, Repashy, Black Panther Zoological, Gecko Pro, Leapin’ Leachie,
Zoo Med
Best insects: crickets, dubia roaches, red runner roaches, darkling beetles, snails, grasshoppers
The key to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your pet is VARIETY. Provide as varied of a diet as you
possibly can, and you will be rewarded with a healthier pet that always looks forward to mealtime.
Supplements
Crested gecko diet is already fortified and balanced with a variety of vitamins and minerals. However,
feeder insects need to be “dusted” with a light coating of calcium powder to balance the calciumphosphorus ratio.
There are many options, but Arcadia CalciumPro Mg or MinerAll Outdoor are both solid calcium
supplements. For best results, use as directed by the label.

Bearded Dragons
Can multiple bearded dragons be housed together?
Bearded dragons are territorial rather than social, which means that keeping multiple bearded dragons
in the same enclosure can lead to fighting and serious (sometimes even fatal) injuries. So it’s best to
keep only one bearded dragon per enclosure.
Lighting & UVB
Bearded dragons are diurnal, which means that they are more active during the day. This also means
that they are stimulated by the presence of bright white light in their environment, and they require
high-quality UVB lighting for survival.
UVB Lighting
UVB lighting can be tricky, because in order to get the right strength of UVB (UV Index, or UVI), distance
and potential mesh obstruction must be considered. To provide appropriate UVB in a 6x2x2 bearded
dragon enclosure, you will need a 34” T5 HO Arcadia 12% or Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 bulb, placed on the
warm side of the enclosure.
The basking area should be placed as follows:
UVB mounted over mesh: basking area 11-13” below UVB lamp
UVB mounted inside enclosure: basking area 16-19” below UVB lamp
(These recommendations are approximations based on available data. For best results, use a Solarmeter
6.5 to determine the best placement to achieve a UVI of 4.0-6.0 in the basking area.)
Full-Spectrum Lighting
Bright light with a color temperature of ~6500K is suggested by experts to be important to bearded
dragons’ mental health. Bearded dragons with additional “daylight” lighting in their enclosure seem to
be more alert and active than those without, as well as demonstrating better appetite and more natural
behaviors.
Full-spectrum lighting is not the same as reptile UVB lighting, so you will need two separate lamps. The
Arcadia Jungle Dawn LED Bar and Bio Dude Glow & Grow are both excellent lamps for this purpose. You
will need enough lighting to illuminate 75-100% of the enclosure’s length.
Heating
Humans are warm-blooded, which means that our body temperature is automatically regulated.
Bearded dragons, however, are cold-blooded, which means that they have to move between areas of
different temperatures in order to regulate their body temperature. Bearded dragons warm up by
basking under the sun in the wild. In captivity, they do best with a halogen heat lamp.
Basking surface temperature: 105-115°F (40-46°C)
Cool zone temperature: 70-85°F (21-29°C)
Generally speaking, a cluster of two 90-100w Zoo Med ReptiTuff or Arcadia Halogen Heat Lamp bulbs
should be plenty to achieve those basking temperatures in a 24” tall enclosure and adequately heat
your dragon’s entire body. However, if you notice that they’re getting too hot, dial it down with a plug-in
lamp dimmer. If your basking area is too cool, you need higher wattage bulbs.
To measure the basking surface temperature, use an infrared thermometer (a.k.a. temperature gun). To
passively track basking temperature, use a digital probe thermometer, with the probe placed on the
basking surface under the heat source. The Etekcity 774 is a good infrared thermometer, and most
reptile-brand digital probe thermometers function well.
If your cool zone temps are too low, you will need to add ambient heating equipment such a ceramic
heaters, heat projectors, or a radiant heat panel to bump them back up to an acceptable range.
All heating equipment should be turned off at night.
Humidity
Bearded dragons should have an average ambient humidity of 30-60%, as measured by a digital probe
hygrometer with the probe placed on the ground on the cool side of the enclosure. Humidity levels that
are consistently higher than 60% or lower than 30% can make your bearded dragon sick. However,
occasional spikes or dips outside of this range are perfectly safe.
Lightly misting your bearded dragon’s enclosure 1-2x/week with a spray bottle of water can be a good
way to help them stay hydrated.
Substrate
Bearded dragons are healthiest and happiest when they are housed on a substrate (a.k.a. “bedding”)
that imitates the conditions of their natural habitat. In eastern and central Australia, that habitat
includes very sandy soil. So the substrate in your bearded dragon’s enclosure should be fine sand or
sandy soil, packed at least 4” deep — preferably deeper, if possible.
Jurassic Natural Australian Desert Dragon Habitat, Jurassic Reptile Substrate, Zoo Med ReptiSand, and
The Bio Dude Terra Sahara are all suitable bearded dragon substrate options. You can also make your
own DIY desert mix of 50% play sand, 30% organic topsoil, and 20% Zoo Med Excavator Clay. That said,
plain sand is inexpensive and also works pretty well as long as it’s clean!
Sick or wounded bearded dragons should not be kept on loose substrate. Instead, use paper towels
until they have recovered.
Feces and urates should be removed daily, and contaminated substrate should be scooped out and
replaced. Substrate should be completely replaced once every 4-6 months, depending on how diligent
you are about spot-cleaning.
Décor
Decorations play an important role in your bearded dragon’s enclosure as environmental enrichment.
Enrichment items encourage exercise, stimulate your dragon’s natural instincts, and help promote
overall wellbeing. And, of course, they make the enclosure look nice! Here are some ideas: cork logs,
cork flats, sturdy branches, live or artificial plants, large resin terrarium
ornaments, rocks, textured backgrounds
Your enclosure is only as functional as the décor inside it, so make sure to be generous with the
furnishings. The setup should not look sparse.
Food
Bearded dragons are omnivores, which means that they need both animal- and plant-based foods to get
the nutrition that their bodies need. How often and how much they need to eat depends on age:
Hatchlings (0-6 months old): Insects 2x/day, vegetables daily
Juveniles (6-12 months old): Insects 1x/day, vegetables daily
Adults (>12 months old): Insects 2-3x/week, vegetables daily
To put this in percentages, you’re looking at roughly 60-80% protein for hatchlings, 50-60% for juveniles,
and 20-30% for adults. It is perfectly fine to occasionally skip a feeding, and helps keep your beardie at a
healthy weight.
The key to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your pet bearded dragon is VARIETY. Provide as varied
of a diet as you possibly can, and you will be rewarded with a healthier pet that always looks forward to
mealtime.
Feeder insects: crickets, dubia roaches, discoid roaches, black soldier fly larvae, mealworms, darkling
beetles, hornworms, silkworms, snails, grasshoppers
Safe vegetables: collard greens, cactus pads, spring mix, arugula, kale, pea shoots, alfalfa, bok choy,
carrot greens, spinach, dandelion greens/flowers, hibiscus leaves/flowers
Fruit is high in sugar and should be generally avoided.
Supplements
To ensure that your bearded dragon is getting all of the vitamins and minerals that they need, you will
need a calcium powder and a multivitamin powder — or a good all-in-one.
There are many options, but you can’t go wrong with the Arcadia Earthpro supplement system or
Repashy Calcium Plus LoD. For best results, use as directed by the label.
Water
All living things on this planet need water, including the ones that live in the desert. Bearded dragons
are no exception, and should have free access to a shallow bowl of fresh, clean water daily.
Bathing or soaking your bearded dragon is an unnecessary practice, and is not beneficial to your
dragon’s health.
